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OGILBY'S MAP OF LONDON as described by Adam and Charles Black in 1908

There is a brilliant version of Ogilbys map of 1677 at the Layers of London site; you need to click to use the overlay, then use the sliders on the Overlay tools to get varying images. I also hide all pins.

This is the List OF Principal Buildings IN OGILBY & MORGAN'S MAP, 1677. ; with additional comments and links as they are added.


Description.This is more exclusively a plan of the City than any we have yet considered. It runs roughly from the Tower to Lincoln's Inn Fields, and the reason why it is thus limited is that it was made as a survey to assist in the plotting out of land in the City after the Fire.

Designer.John Ogilby was born about 1600, and did not turn his attention to surveying until he was about sixty-six, when he secured the appointment as "King's Cosmographer and Geographical Printer." He died in 1676, the year before his map was published. He was assisted in the work by William Morgan, his wife's grandson, and most of the actual engraving of the map was done by Hollar.

Original.The original is 8 feet 5 inches by 4 feet 7 inches, and is in twenty sheets. It is on the scale of 100 feet to the inch. It may be seen in the British Museum (Crace Collection) and in the Guildhall. The two examples differ a little, and that in the Guildhall has an additional sheet. The reproduction here given is taken from that made by the London and Middlesex Archæological Society from the British Museum copy. The arms of the City are in the left-hand top corner, and those of Sir Thomas Davies, Lord Mayor 1676-77, in the right-hand corner.

Details.Beginning at the left-hand top corner, we find pastures, bowling-greens, and market-gardens. Aylesbury House, next to St. John Street, has magnificent private gardens, and beyond the Charterhouse bowling-green there is a wood. Further east the Honourable Artillery Company, which had been revived by Cromwell, can be seen, with their equipment and tents. This company is directly descended from the Finsbury Archers, whom we noted in the last map, and it is interesting to know that the actual ground on which they are here depicted is still reserved for their use. Moorfields is neatly laid out and planned, and south of it is new Bethlehem Hospital, now transferred across the river. Eastward, again, there is a large open space at Devonshire House Garden, and southward innumerable gardens can be seen, some of which are preserved to this day behind City halls, etc., but so hidden that no one who did not know of their existence could possibly find them.

On tracing the line of the City wall on the north side we see how some of the churches, notably St. Giles's and St. Botolph's, have taken a part of the town ditch for the enlargement of their churchyards; near St. Bartholomew's the town ditch is still marked. This ditch caused the Mayor and Council as much worry as the increase of houses, because it was the receptacle for every kind of filth, and its cleansing annually swallowed up a large sum of money. The Fleet River is shown flowing down in the open, and is called the New Canal. It is crossed by a bridge at Holborn and another at Fleet Street. We can mark the sinuous line of the great thoroughfare of Holborn as it was before the viaduct and approaches were made. The Strand outside Temple Bar shows the obstructions which have only finally been removed in our own time. Butcher Row disappeared first in 1813; other streets followed to make way for the new Law Courts, and with the destruction of Holywell Row and the opening of Kingsway the improvements here may be considered complete.

To the south are the great houses of Essex and Arundel, with their gardens; their names are preserved in the streets that flow over their sites. Somerset House, the Protector's palace, was then standing, and did not make way for its present representative for another hundred years. The river is covered with wherries, clustered as thickly as ants. It is still the main highway for most people, though there were hackney coaches for hire. There was still only London Bridge by which to get across the river on foot, and the boats were used as ferries. There were tilt-boats, too, as well as the smaller wherries; these ran at stated intervals, like our own omnibuses, and were protected by an awning. Near the Fleet mouth is Bridewell, once a palace, and the scene of the meeting of Parliament, but given by Edward VI. to be a prison. On the east is a blank space, where is now the station of the London Chatham and Dover Railway Co., who purchased it in 1844. The site of St. Paul's was plotted out, but not yet built upon. In fact, the rebuilding of the houses was the first consideration, and was done with remarkable promptness, for in the meantime the poor houseless wretches were camping on Moorfields. The churches and city halls were therefore left to the last; yet even so we may see that, though only eleven years had elapsed since the destruction of the City, about twenty churches had been rebuilt out of the eighty-seven that were destroyed. The picturesque Old London of the gable-ends and overhanging stories was gone, never to return; but gone also was a great deal of rubbish and an insanitariness never afterwards quite so bad. As for the overcrowding, we must see what Sir Walter Besant says:

"If we look into Ogilby's map, we see plainly that as regards the streets and courts London after the Fire was very much the same as London before the Fire; there were the same narrow streets, the same crowded alleys, the same courts and yards. Take, for instance, the small area lying between Bread Street Hill on the west and Garlick Hill on the east, between Trinity Lane on the north and Thames Street on the south: is it possible to crowd more courts and alleys into this area? Can we believe that after the Fire London was relieved of its narrow courts with this map before us? Look at the closely-shut-in places marked on the maps'1 g., m. 46, m. 47, m. 48, m. 40.' These are respectively Jack Alley, Newman's Rents, Sugar-Loaf Court, Three Cranes Court, and Cowden's Rents. Some of these courts survive to this day. They were formed, as the demand for land grew, by running narrow lanes between the backs of houses and swallowing up the gardens. There were 479 such courts in Ogilby's London of 1677, 472 alleys, and 172 yards, besides 128 inns, each of which, with its open courts for the standing of vehicles and its galleries, stood retired from the street on a spot which had once been the fair garden of a citizen's house" (London in the Time of the Stuarts, p. 280).

THE FOLLOWING EXPLANATIONS ARE EXTRACTED FROM OGILBY'S KEY TO THE MAP IN THE BRITISH MUSEUM

We Proceed to the Explanation of the Map, containing 25 Wards, 122 Parishes and Liberties, and therein 189 Streets, 153 Lanes, 522 Alleys, 458 Courts, and 210 Yards bearing Name.

The Broad Black Line is the City Wall. The Line of the Freedom is a Chain. The Division of the Wards, thus oooo. The Parishes, Liberties, and Precincts by a Prick-line, .... Each Ward and Parish is known by the Letters and Figures Distributed within their Bounds, which are placed in the Tables before their Names.... The Wards by Capitals without Figures. The Parishes, &c., by Numbers without Letters. The Great Letters with Numbers refer to Halls, Great Buildings, and Inns. The Small Letters to Courts, Yards, and Alleys, every Letter being repeated 99 times, and sprinkled in the Space of 5 Inches, running through the Map, from the Left Hand to the Right, &c. Churches and Eminent Buildings are double Hatch'd, Streets, Lanes, Alleys, Courts, and Yards, are left White. Gardens, &c. faintly Prick'd. Where the Space admits the Name of the Place is in Words at length, but where there is not room, a Letter and Figure refers you to the Table in which the Streets are Alphabetically dispos'd, and in every Street the Churches and Halls, Places of Note, and Inns, with the Courts, Yards, and Alleys, are named; then the Lanes in that Street, and the Churches, &c. as aforesaid, in each Lane.

The several Marks and Names of the Wards, Parishes, and Liberties

Wards
[And links to the same Wards in 1756.] Faringdon Without - Faringdon Ward without in 1756 Faringdon Within - Faringdon Ward Within in 1756
Bainard-Castle - Castle Baynard Ward in 1756
Bread-Street - Bread street ward in 1756
Queen-Hith - Queenhithe Ward in 1756
Cordwainers - Cordwainers street Ward in 1756
Walbrook - Walbrook Ward in 1756 Vintry - Vintry Ward in 1756
Dowgate - Dowgate Ward in 1756
Broad-Street - Broad street ward in 1756
Cornhil - Cornhill Ward in 1756
Cheap - Cheap Ward in 1756
Bassishaw - Bassinghall ward in 1756
Coleman-Street - Coleman street in 1756
Bishopsgate - Bishopsgate ward in 1756
Cripplegate - Cripplegate Ward in 1756
Aldersgate - Aldersgate in 1756
Billingsgate - Billingsgate ward in 1756
Lime-Street - Lime street Ward in 1756
Langborn - Langbourn Ward in 1756
Portsoken - Portsoken Ward in 1756
Aldgate - Aldgate in 1756
Candlewick - Candlewick Ward in 1756
Bridg - Bridge Ward Within in 1756

And Tower - Tower street Ward in 1756 which is not listed in 1677.

Parishes and Liberties

01. St. James Clerkenwel - Clerkenwell
02. St. Giles Cripple-Gate - Cripplegate
03. St. Leonard Shoreditch
04. Norton-Folgate Liberty
05. St. Botolph Bishopsgate - Bishopsgate
06. Stepney
07. St. Stephen Coleman Street
08. Alhallows on the Wall - All Hallows London Wall
09. St. Andrew Holborn
10. St. Giles in the Fields - St Giles in Fields
11. St. Sepulchers
12. St. Mary Cole-Church
13. St. Botolph Aldersgate
14. St. Alphage
15. St. Alban Wood Street
16. St. Olave Silver Street
17. St. Michael Bassishaw
18. Christ Church
19. St. Anne Aldersgate
20. St. Mary Staining
21. St. Mary Aldermanbury
22. St. Olave Jewry
23. St. Martin Ironmonger Lane
24. St. Mildred Poultry
25. St. Bennet Sherehog
26. St. Pancras Soaper Lane
27. St. Laurence Jewry
28. St. Mary Magdalen Milk Street
29. Alhallows Hony Lane - All Hallows Honey Lane
30. St. Mary le Bow
31. St. Peter Cheap
32. St. Michael Wood Street
33. St. John Zachary
34. St. Martins Liberty
35. St. Leonard Foster Lane - St Leonard Foster lane, City of London
36. St. Vedast, alias Foster
37. St. Michael Quern
38. St. John Evangelist
39. St. Mathew Friday Street
40. St. Margaret Lothbury
41. St. Bartholemew Exchange
42. St. Christophers
43. St. Mary Woolnoth
44. St. Mary Woolchurch
45. St. Michael Cornhil
46. St. Bennet Fink
47. St. Peter Poor
48. St. Peter Cornhil
49. St. Martin Outwich
50. St. Hellens
51. St. Ethelborough - St Ethelburga
52. St. Andrew Undershaft
53. Alhallows Lumbard Street - All Hallows Lombard Street
54. St. Edmond Lumbard Street
55. St. Dionis Back-Church
56. St. Katherine Cree-Church
57. St. James Dukes Place
58. St. Katherine Coleman
59. St. Olave Hart Street
60. St. Botolph Aldgate
61. St. Mary White Chapel
62. Trinity Minories
63. St. Bartholemew the Great
64. Alhallows Staining - All Hallows Staining
65. Alhallows Barking - All Hallows Barking
66. St. Mary Abchurch
67. St. Nicholas Accorn
68. St. Clement East Cheap
69. St. Bennet Grace-Church
70. St. Gabriel Fenchurch
71. St. Margaret Pattons
72. St. Andrew Hubbart
73. Dutchy Liberty
74. St. Clement Danes
75. Rolls Liberty
76. St. Dunstan in the West
77. White Fryers Precinct
78. St. Bridget
79. Bridewel Precinct
80. St. Anne Black-Fryers
81. St. Martin's Ludgate
82. St. Gregories
083. St. Andrew Wardrobe
084. St. Bennet Paul's Wharf
085. St. Peter
086. St. Mary Magdaline Old Fish-Street
087. St. Nicholas Cole-Abby
088. St. Austine
089. St. Margaret Moses
090. Alhallows Bread-Street - All Hallows Bread Street
091. St. Mildred Bread-Street
092. St. Nicholas Olave
093. St. Mary Mounthaw
094. St. Mary Somerset
095. St. Michael Queen Hith
096. Trinity
097. St. Mary Aldermary
098. St. Thomas Apostles
099. St. Michael Royal
100. St. James Garlick-Hith
101. St. Martin Vintry
102. St. Antholin's
103. St. John Baptist
104. St. Stephen Walbrook
105. St. Swithin
106. St. Mary Bothaw
107. Alhallows the Great
108. St. Faith's
109. St. Leonard East Cheap
110. St. Laurence Poultney
111. St. Martin Orgar's
112. Little Alhallows - All Hallows the Less
113. St. Michael Crooked Lane
114. St. Magnus at the Bridg
115. St. Margaret New Fish-Street
116. St. George Botolph Lane
117. St. Botolph Billingsgate
118. St. Mary Hill
119. St. Dunstans in the East
120. Little St. Bartholemews
121. Tower Liberty
122. St. Katherines

LIST OF PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS IN OGILBY & MORGAN'S MAP, 1677.

COMPILED FROM THE MAP AND KEY
The References on the left of the names refer to the marginal numbers on the Map.
This is the List OF Principal Buildings IN OGILBY & MORGAN'S MAP, 1677. with additional comments and links as they are added.

And Last updated on: Sunday, 19-Nov-2023 16:16:13 GMT
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