A historical site about early London coffee houses and taverns and will also link to my current pub history site and also the London street directory
Turning from the Hall of Commerce and Finch Lane, let us walk a short
distance to the left.
Opposite to where the telegraph office now stands, between the North British
Life Office and the Hercules Passage entrance to the Stock Exchange, once stood
the Old Fleece and Sun Tavern, kept by two brothers named Cooper, at the corner
of Spread Eagle Court, a narrow passage then leading into Finch Lane.
The Fleece Inn was a chop-house, very unlike those already mentioned, inasmuch
as all the customers took their own uncooked provisions in with them.
It was frequented by some of the wealthiest men of Lloyd's the Stock Exchange,
and the various offices round about. Next door was Banister's, the butcher's,
over whose shop were the royal arms, and in gold letters, " To Her Majesty."
Here each customer selected his chop, steak, or what he fancied, saw it cut off
and weighed, and after paying for it, and having it handed to him done up in
newspaper, he trotted in next door to the Fleece and Sun and handed it over to
the waiter, or, if he was "a werry partic'ler gent," to the cook himself, with
full instructions.
Frequently a Stock Exchange man would make his purchase early in the day and
take it into the Fleece, fixing a time when he would be in to dinner. Then he
would go over to the house or his office, and so lose no time in the busy hours
in waiting during the culinary process, which others of necessity had to do.
On entering the Fleece, a good-sized room with a sanded floor presented itself
to view. On one side, half-way up the room, was a small bar, and opposite to it
was the fire and gridiron. Such things as silver grids were unborn at that time.
All round the remaining space were the customary cosy little boxes with room for
four, and no more, to sit with comfort. Decorations or embellishments there were
none ; but though the place looked rough, it was scrupulously clean.
No customer was very long before being attended to by the waiter, who received
his orders for beer or wine. The former, as at other chop-houses, was served in
the pewter pot ; and the wine, particularly port, was of a quality rarely to be
met with nowadays. So soon as the chop or steak was ready, it was produced on a
pewter or china plate, as required, and was flanked by another plate filled with
floury potatoes, boiled in their "jackets," that would have delighted the soul
of an Irishman to behold. Bread was also supplied, and, if desired, cheese,
butter, celery, or watercress could be had ; but these latter were extras. After
enjoying his dinner, and asking the waiter what he had to pay, a modest charge
of 3d. was made, for what John euphoniously called, " bread cookin' and
'taters." The account for wine or beer and extras became an additional charge,
of course.
It was the Fleece and Sun that the late George Augustus Sala confounded with
Joe's in Finch Lane, in one of his articles in the Daily Telegraph.
The wines drunk in those days were port and sherry. Champagne, though of course
well known and drunk occasionally, was not greatly in vogue, except at special
dinner parties and ball suppers.
What is called dry champagne was aloiost, if not altogether, unknown, and it is,
comparatively speaking, an invention of modern times. Possibly, nay, most
probably, it is bad taste on my part. but I never drink it without a sigh for
the champagne of the days of my youth.
Banister's, Leman's.
A door or two from Banister's was Lemann's — or, as it was then spelt, Leman —
the celebrated biscuit baker ; the maker of those well-known items of child and
babyhood's early sustenance, called tops and bottoms. Rusks, captains, and small
round biscuits known as dollars, were then, and I believe are now, specialities
of Lemann's bakeries.
Banister moved in 1861 to King Street, Cheapside, and ten years later to Newgate
Street. He was deputy of his ward of Broad Street from 1860 until his death in
1875.
The old Fleece and Sun has disappeared in toto, and left not a vestige behind.
Lemann's business alone survives. It was removed to London Wall, and a while ago
was again removed to 28 and 29, St. Swithin's Lane, and now stands opposite the
offices of Messrs. Rothschilds, so that any of my readers having recent
additions to their family circles, in St. Swithin's Lane can there get the good
old tops and bottoms.
On the site these three buildings once occupied now stand the Scottish Amicable
Life Office, a pile of stockbrokers' offices, and the Peabody Statue.
References :
Lots of references are made to two sources on the
internet archive
:
Edward Callows, Old London Taverns &
John Timbs, Club life of London Volume 2